... den Weg kann man nur bei Ebbe nehmen und man darf am Strand nichts als die
eigenen Fußabdrücke hinterlassen und nur die Erinnerungen mitnehmen ...
... Chesterman Beach ...
... Wetter - Wetter - Wetter ...
... ich kann das Frühstück schon fast riechen ...
... ein paar Meter weiter ist gerade eines der Häuser, die hier direkt am Strand zwischen den Bäumen versteckt sind,
für 14 Mio zu verkaufen – damit sind wir bei den teuersten Immobilen auf Vancouver Island angekommen aber noch
lange nicht bei den teuersten on Chesterman Beach ... wir sind Charles McDiarmid jedenfalls unendlich dankbar,
dass er diese bemerkenswerte Hütte auf den Felsen gesetzt hat, die seit über 20 Jahren Gäste aus aller Welt an
diesen Ort lockt und uns genauso lange schon ein Zuhause weit weg von zu Hause zaubert ...
... Henry Nolla's Carving Shed ... In the late 70's, with the help of a local Tofino contractor Don McGinnis and
carver Henry Nolla, the McDiarmid family began construction on their cabin at the north end of Shell Beach.
Over the building phase, Dr. McDiarmid developed a deep respect and trust for Henry, and invited him to build
his own place on the McDiarmid property in exchange for playing a part as custodian and protector of the cabin.
Over the years, Henry became a mentor to a community of West Coast wood carvers. In fact, his work can be seen
throughout Tofino at the Common Loaf Bake Shop, the Village Green and most prominently, as the face of Roy Henry
Vickers' Eagle Aerie Gallery. In his Carving Shed and on Chesterman Beach, using tools he designed and forged him-
self, he completed much of the adze work found throughout the Wickaninnish Inn, from our yellow cedar welcoming
doors, to post and beam and detail work in all public spaces, and the signature fireplace mantles found in each
guest room ...
... though Henry passed in 2004, his legacy continues in the hub of activity at his carving shed right by the Inn's
Beach Building as well as the small Henry Nolla Art Gallery off the Driftwood Café. On your next walk down
Chesterman Beach, if you see the yellow "Welcome" sign or door open in front of the shed, pop in and see
the latest works from those who learned from and worked alongside Henry, such as "Feather" George Yearsley,
and new artists such as Christen Dokk Smith ...
The bar team at Pointe Restaurant uses Yearsley’s cedar wood curls to infuse rye whisky for Feather George cocktail.
The Feather George
1.5 oz J.P. Wiser’s Triple Barrel Rye Whisky double-infused with cedar
0.75 oz Italian Vermouth
0.25 oz Giffard Abricot de Roussillon
2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6
Fidencio Mezcal rinse
... A RICH HISTORY ... for several thousand years, the Tla-o-qui-aht Nation (anglicized to Clayoquot) have lived and settled
in the region, including the village of Opitsaht, across the water from Tofino on Meares Island. A nation of skilled fisher-
man and master carvers, the Tla-o-qui-aht were once led by Chief Wickaninnish—from whom the Inn gets its name (meaning
“No one goes before him” or “He-who-no-one-sits-in-front-of-in-the-canoe,” depending). Both feared and revered as a
courageous leader, Wickaninnish led his warriors to several victories against neighbouring nations, gaining command of
a wide swath of territory by the end of the 18th century encompassing an estimated 13,000 First Nations people ...
... ARRIVALS ... around this time, European explorers were starting to take a real interest in the West Coast. Furs—particularly
from sea otters—were becoming an increasingly popular and profitable commodity in Asia, and Vancouver Island had a
seemingly endless supply. Enter the Felice Adventurero in 1788 captained by John Meares, a British trader who, with
no official sanction from London, flew the Portuguese flag on his ship. His arrival spawned an international dispute
between Britain and Spain, and later America, on sovereignty claims and rights of navigation and trade in the area ...
... the Tla-o-qui-aht people were absorbed into the turmoil. And while they proved to be savvy traders, initially building
cordial, even friendly, relations with the European traders, eventually—due to acts of treachery and a general mistrust
on both sides—the situation devolved into outright hostilities. It culminated with the 1811 attack and ultimate destruction
of the American ship Tonquin ...
... A TOWN IS BORN ... there was a decline in coastal traffic to Clayoquot Sound for the next few decades, but in the
early 1870s, a trading post was established on Stubbs Island, also known as Clayoquot Island, just across the channel
from current-day Tofino. With a population of just 150 people, the post boasted a hotel with British Columbia’s first
official liquor license, a post office and a provincial police station. In 1909 the current townsite of Tofino, on the
tip of the Esowista Peninsula, was established ...
... around 1913, the fledgling community started to receive regular visits from the steamer Princess Maquinna,
providing a means for the first tourists to visit. As tourism sunk its roots, the mining, lumber, fishing and
farming industries thrived. There was even a short-lived gold rush up the coast, which saw the arrival of
the first scheduled seaplane service to the area ...
... der Baumstamm liegt ziemlich weit oben auf einem Felsen und ich mag mir gar nicht vorstellen, welche
Flut den da oben rauf gespült hat und warum die Häuser ein paar Meter weiter noch stehen ...
... THE END OF THE ROAD ... though Tofino had always been accessible by sea and then by air (thanks to an airport construct-
ed during World War II), the most significant transportation link was the opening of a logging road through to Port Alberni
in 1959. At this time the McDiarmid family had already been in Tofino for a few years and were around to witness how the
road opened up markets for fish and logs, and the few adventurous tourists beginning to venture out to the Island’s West
Coast. In a few years the area’s beaches became havens for pioneer surfers, conscientious objectors and wayward hippies ...
... GREENER FUTURES ... in the late ‘60s, a grassroots movement to have the area designated a national park began. Dr.
Howard McDiarmid, as the local Alberni-Clayoquot MLA (1966-1972), was at the forefront in advocating for its creation.
The Pacific Rim National Park Reserve opened in 1971 and, while it means you can no longer drive on the beach, it protects
an invaluable ecosystem and enables people from all around the world to enjoy the area’s immense cultural and natural
beauty. The road to the coast was paved the year after the park was created, and the area began to attract visitors from
far and wide, creating a demand for infrastructure to cater to their needs which started to develop ...
... growth in tourism and the town’s population continued before Clayoquot Sound was thrust onto the world stage for
another reason. In 1993, concerned environmentalists faced off against the timber industry over logging in the Clayoquot
Region. The protests culminated in the largest act of peaceful civil disobedience in Canadian history and the introduction
of the Clayoquot Sound Land Use Decision in 1995—still a hot topic today ...
... OPENING DOORS ... back when the park was created, an old Inn at the south end of Wickaninnish Beach had been closed
and turned into an interpretive centre (now Kwisitis Visitor Centre); Dr. McDiarmid had often thought about recreating it
anew. In the ‘90s, inspired by their parents' foresight, Bruce and Charles McDiarmid joined with a group of long-time
Tofino residents to make the vision a reality ...
... on the family property, in the area where, as kids, they’d run to watch the storms come in, Charles and Bruce
cleared the footprint for the building. They worked by hand to ensure no trees were taken down unnecessarily,
and then started construction. In 1996 the Wickaninnish Inn and the Pointe Restaurant opened at the north end
of Chesterman Beach, and two years later, in 1998, they opened the Ancient Cedars Spa ...
... it was a welcome addition for visitors coming to Tofino. With the popularity of wildlife sightings,
surfing and storm watching, the area had become a destination and the quality experience
provided by the Inn brought a steady growth in Canadian and international visitors ...
... while Tofino and the Inn have changed and grown over the years, the essence of its character continues to attract
those seeking opportunities and alternative ways of living—even just for a little while. It continues to be an out-
post amidst the rugged wilderness, a tight-knit community, a place for artistic inspiration and adventure, where
new ideas take shape and where heritage and history are deeply ingrained in our everyday ...
... da musste Photoshop heute ganz schön hart arbeiten und die Qualität der Bilder gruselt mich gewaltig, ABER da
muss man halt mal nachsichtig sein, denn solche Bilder kann ich mir doch nicht entgehen lassen, nur weil die Linsen
patschnass sind, mir die Suppe aus den Haaren läuft und ich mich frage, wie lange die Kameras noch dicht halten ...
... auf Raubzug ...
... selbst die Adler sind verschwunden - die einzigen die offensichtlich nichts erschüttern kann, sind die Surfer ...
... für mich eindeutig der schönste Strand der Welt - Palmen brauch' ich sowieso nicht und Sonnenliegen sind mir ein Graus ...
... es regnet Bindfäden und das seit Tagen und die beiden hocken da gemütlich
auf dem Strand und kochen sich was leckeres - hoffentlich ...
... so Ihr Lieben, das war's dann für 2019 - fast jedenfalls. Wir verabschieden das Jahr mit dem
schlechtesten Wetter, das wir hier jemals erleben durften, dass für tolle aber wenig "hochwertige"
Fotos sorgt und dem hiesigen Weinkeller einen gewaltigen Umsatz beschert ;-)